Love Bali but sick of wild parties, children dive-bombing you in the pool, beach hawkers and blaring TVs?
If you want a relaxing holiday in a beautiful location, you should try the quieter east coast, the region known as Karangasem.
With the pink sky reflected in the pool, which overlooks the sea, we're sipping cocktails during happy hour at the Siddharta Resort in the tiny village of Kubu. There's only two other tables of people, the bar staff are friendly and the mood is chilled.
In the shadow of Mount (Gunung) Agung – Bali's holiest mountain – the resort is popular with European divers, snorkellers and people who just want to forget their hectic lives in what part-owner Barbara Ebel describes as a remote location.
It's been open since 2009 and although it will accept children as guests, it doesn't encourage them. It's a resort built more for adults who also want to enjoy Balinese culture such as dance performances by local students.
The east coast is a gem and my favourite part of Bali. It encompasses emerald green landscapes, ancient rice terraces, black sand beaches, picturesque villages and temples as well as royal water palaces. And it's only about three hours from the chaos and hype of the Kuta to Seminyak strip.
You can dive or snorkel next to a dive wreck nearby, or Siddharta will arrange for guests to be taken to nearby sites such as Tulamben, where you can explore the USAT Liberty, which was torpedoed by a Japanese submarine and forced to beach during World War II so her cargo of railway parts and rubber could be salvaged.
In 1963, the Mount Agung eruption forced it into the sea. For divers and snorkellers, it's now an underwater paradise.
About half way back to Denpasar is Candi Dasa, which means "10th temple", and until the 1970s was a quiet fishing village. It now has restaurants, small shops and hotels strung along the main road.
Unfortunately, it no longer has a proper beach due to overdevelopment, which used coral from the reef. However, there are some small triangles of sand emerging and you can still swim there.
Beautiful white-sand beach Pasir Putih is 5km to the east, and there's a beach at Padang Bai. Candi Dasa has crystal blue bays. Gili Tepekong has a series of coral heads at the top of a sheer drop-off.
THINGS TO DO AROUND THE EAST COAST:
*Take a PADI scuba dive course and experience the marine life or take a jukung (sailboat)/snorkelling trip.
* Visit Tenganan, a traditional village with a unique layout 6km up a side road west of Candi Dasa. The people who live here are Bali Aga, descendants of the original residents who were here before the Majapahit. It's also known for its Gamelan selunding music and double ikat weaving worn as ceremonial sarongs and sashes and lontar (specially prepared palm leave) strips as well as antiques. Check to see if a festival is on, or the once-a-year ritual combat carried out by Bali Aga men.
* Go bathing at Taman Tirta Gangga, a stunning water palace built by the last king of Karangasem in 1948. It was damaged in the 1963 eruption and again during the political crisis in 1965. It has several vast swimming pools and ornamental ponds near huge old banyan trees and is dotted with statues of the raja. It's surrounded by stunning rice terraces. About 12km north of Candi Dasa. Or visit the Ujung Water Palace, completed in 1921, closer to Amlapura.
* When in Candi Dasa, climb Bukit Kusambi hill at sunrise to find Lombok's Gunung Rinjani throwing a shadow on Gunung Agung. Or walk around the little lagoon by the bridge – and look into the grounds of the Gandhian ashram between the lagoon and the sea.
* Drive a back road through the jungle to Kintamani and then trek back via Mount Batur to the east coast. If you stay at the Lakeview Hotel you will awake to astonishing views of Mount Batur covered in mist. The hotel will arrange trekking, bike riding and other adventure trips as well as climbing Mount Batur and visits to the hot springs.
* Dance to to reggae at Amed on a Saturday night. A local band plays at Wawa Wewe Two (there are three resorts named one, two and three).
IF YOU GO:
Getting there: Garuda, Jetstar and Virgin fly to Bali.
Staying there: Siddhartha Ocean Front Resort and Spa is part of Werner Lau resorts. Packages start from $A492 a person for four nights. See siddhartha-bali.com. Kintamani Lakeview: lakeviewbali.com.
Playing there: It's less stressful to hire a car and driver, which costs about $A80-$A100 a day.
