Travel Weekly’s much loved Greg ‘Sparrow’ Graham recently enjoyed a week long stint in an Aussie favourite getaway: Bali. Desperate to avoid the typical tourist traps, Sparrow decided to lap up the exquisite food on offer. Read on below!

I felt a little bit un-Australian on my recent trip to Bali.

I know I am stereotyping Aussie travellers; however, I did not get a tattoo, buy a singlet, I did not set foot in Kuta, Legion, or Seminyak, drink Bintang, get my hair braided (not that I have enough hair for that to be possible), or crash my scooter.  

I departed Sydney with the Flying Kangaroo. My Boeing 737 flight QF43 arrived 30 minutes ahead of time and my Bali adventure was off to an awesome start. The objective remained resolute: I wanted to avoid the world and have 5 days of R&R with great food after my mate’s wedding – the reason I was in Bali in the first place.

After the spectacular wedding at this ultra-luxury villa compound at Saba Estate, I headed for Ubud, seeking out a chilled experience.

The lush greenery of Ubud, Bali – not Sparrow in the photo (iStock/ljubaphoto)

Now I am not a health nut, vegetarian, or yoga devotee, I just love my food.

My holiday mission was to find peace, tranquillity and delicious food at Alila Ubud. My first impression is this place is heaven in paradise. The hotel is nestled into the side of Ayung River Valley with breath-taking views of lush tropical forest making me feel like I am in a fancy tree house and the monkeys are my official greeters.

The 56 rooms and 18 villas are divine with great outdoor rain showers and baths plus incredible views of the lush green jungle; my blood pressure started to drop immediately in a very good way. The swimming pool area is absolutely stunning with a 25-metre infinity pool that stretches out into the valley surrounded by the lush rainforest. The only noise is the tropical bird life or the local monkeys hanging out. The staff warns all guests when not occupied to keep their villa doors closed or the monkeys literally go apeshit and tear up your room. Poolside they also snatch your coconut cocktails and fruit platters so be careful having an afternoon siesta.

Poolside views at Alila, Ubud

Monkeys hanging around the hotel

The dining at the hotel’s two main restaurants in Ubud provide a culinary adventure that will delight your taste buds. The Plantation Restaurant hosts breakfast and dinner and prides itself on being a member of Slow Food Bali. This is based on a concept of food quality that is defined by three interconnecting principles. 1) Good – A flavoursome seasonal diet that satisfies the senses and is part of the local culture. 2) Clean – Food production and consumption that does not harm the environment, animal welfare, or human health and 3) Fair – Accessible prices for consumers and fair conditions and pay for the producers. I love this Slow Food Bali concept and, most importantly, the food is fresh and delicious!

The breakfast menu changes every day along with fresh fruit and juices. Dinner is authentic Balinese dishes with ingredients from the hotel’s organic farm and nearby village markets. My favourite meal at Plantation was for starter Botok Udang, steamed prawn with spiced coconut and lemon basil served with Balinese-style green papaya salad. For the main, it was Kushan Kambling, braised lamb, mild yellow paste, coconut milk, fried shallots, kaffir lime & rice.

Every afternoon at 3 pm you would find me in the lounge as they serve complimentary afternoon tea with a selection of local Balinese sweet delights.

One of the highlights of my foodie adventure was going to the local market at Payangan early in the morning with one of the chefs from the hotel to pick up some fresh herbs and spices. It opens at 4 am, avoiding the heat of the day, and its impact on the fresh poultry and seafood, at 7 am it is a hive of activity with the locals negotiating for fresh vegetables, fruits of every kind, eggs, rice, tofu, aromatics, flowers, fresh seafood, chicken etc.

Plus, the locals were picking up traditional breakfast offerings including rice combinations, chicken, and pork satays, including my favorite Babi Guling (fresh pig with spicy seasonings). For any foodie, this is a ‘must do’, however you do need a local to explain the incredible range of produce and the different types of vegetables (who knew the varieties of ginger, turmeric, beans, etc.).

Another brilliant ‘must do’ food experience was the cooking masterclass with the Alila chef Gusti. Taking place in the hotel’s organic gardens outside kitchen, the class involved all the prep, making the Bumbu base paste, cooking, steaming, wok frying rice/noodles and most importantly enjoying the fruits of your labour for lunch. It really was a Balinese feast with Perkedel Jagung – sweet corn fritters, Tum Ayam – steamed chicken in banana leaves, Sate Lilit Ivan – minced fish sate with peanut sauce, Be Pasih Sambal Mayan – fresh tuna in shallots and lemongrass dressing, Sayur Urap – Balinese vegetable salad and finally Nasi Goreng Ayam – fried rice with vegetables and chicken.

For my last night in Bali, I had to visit a restaurant all my friends had been raving about … Mozaic Ubud. Guess what, it did not disappoint! In fact, it over-delivered with an outstanding chef’s amuse seasonal menu of six incredible courses. I loved how the chef Blake Thornley from New Zealand narrated the menu as it unfolded, plus showcased local ingredients used throughout the meal actually displayed in front of you on your table.

Ingredients laid out in front of you with chef Thornley

Not only was the Mozaic food out of this world, the personalised service and attention to detail were truly exceptional. My two favourite courses – if I had to pick two – would be the perfectly seared scallop, parsley beads, coconut, crab foam & tapioca crisp and the final dessert called Textures of Chocolate with milk, white, dark & wasted citrus – yum!

Hanging ducks

At the end of a very memorable five days in Bali, I left with a feeling of tranquillity. However, my tastebuds were zinging and high in the hills of Ubud I discovered the food gods.

Plus, staying at the Alila Ubud made for a fantastic stay. I valued the special touches such as the personalised handwritten note on arrival along with the complimentary local fruit bowl, the old-fashioned turndown service, and every staff member – and I mean every staff member – wishing you a good morning or have a nice day.

The authentically friendly service, excellent food, rainforest location and overall outstanding hospitality at Alila Ubud are truly first-class. I am already dreaming about a return trip where once again I can disconnect from the world, avoid the tourist spots, and experience incredible food in a breathtaking beautiful, lush green valley just outside Ubud Bali.