REVIEW: Hong Kong in the shoulder season is still Hong Kong

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Caption: Traditional Junk Boat at Dusk

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Edited by Travel Weekly

Following a steady decline in visitors since 2018, travel and tourism agents have stressed the need to find ways to encourage travellers to stay in Hong Kong. Fredrika Stigell checked out the city in August and found plenty of reasons to stay. In fact, she didn’t want to board the plane home.

I realised only after I had booked my flights to Hong Kong it was in fact the rainy season and more so, peak typhoon season. My partner and I gulped and put on a brave face, feeling very Aussie as I said, “She’ll be right”.

And right, she was. Hong Kong was not only sunny but refreshingly quiet (tourists-wise, Hong Kong itself is never quiet).

Aussies may be surprised by the fact that Hong Kong is filled with beautiful beaches and hiking trails close to the city. Unlike Aussie beaches, where seaside shops usually boast fish and chips (don’t get me wrong, love fish and chips), these seaside shops offer braised beef noodle soup and dumplings to gulp down after a swim, a welcome change.

The braised beef noodle soup in question. Photo: Fredrika Stigell

Approximately 50 per cent of visitors coming to Hong Kong are either transit or same-day arrivals. While Singapore, Dubai and Doha have managed to use their status as a transit location to their advantage, encouraging tourists to consider staying there longer, Hong Kong has had a harder time.

Over 33.9 million people visited Hong Kong in 2023 reaching HK$177.90 billion (AU$35.33b) in tourism expenditures. While this might sound high, these numbers are lukewarm compared to pre-pandemic times. Several factors including COVID-19 lockdowns and the city’s protests in 2019 might form part of the reasons for lower numbers.

However, while I was there, any excuse tourists might give for not going seemed ridiculous. The city was buzzy and beautiful, with plenty of things to see and do. Plus, going to Hong Kong during the shoulder season offered a number of benefits. There were deals on everything from flights to hotel rooms to experiences in the city.

Shek O beach. Photo: Fredrika Stigell

While the deals point to the city’s struggles to bump the tourism economy, it’s as good a time as any to take advantage of them and explore the city.

Catching the Metro from anywhere in the city is incredibly easy and will take you to many popular destinations. Buses leave from the city regularly to beaches and hiking spots, most only 20 minutes away.

The Monster Building, for film buffs especially, is a must-visit. Transformers: Age of Extinction and Ghost in the Shell both featured the building. Built in the 60s, the Monster Building – so-called because of its M-shape – offers a glimpse of the old Hong Kong style of architecture, with the upper floors of buildings for domestic use while shops line the ground floor.

The Monster Building from the street view. Photo: Fredrika Stigell

Hong Kong’s most popular hiking and scenic spot is The Peak. Visitors can board the tram or walk up. Once at the top, there are three individual peaks to trek to, all offering differing views of the city. If you’re like us, you’ll hike to all of them, then realise you’re out of water, stumble upon a creek with fresh water, and sit in the cool of it for an hour because you just ran around in the heat from the sheer excitement of the beauty of Hong Kong.

Views of the city from The Peak. Photo: Fredrika Stigell

The food everywhere is spectacular. The best way to do it is just follow your nose. Local markets are great for viewing and buying, with many stalls selling buns or snacks which are easier to get a taste of if you’re not staying somewhere that allows you to cook a meal. You’ll find great dumplings and noodle soups everywhere, with a mix of Southern and Northern Chinese cuisines.

The city boasts world-famous cocktail bars, some with a view to die for, like Hutong (a restaurant and bar). Admiralty, The Shady Acres, and Penicillin are just some spots to check out. Central is a trusty place for busy streets and fun crowds when elsewhere might be quiet. Asia’s 50 Best Bars List awarded Hong Kong its first spot for Bar Leone.

The glorious main dining room at Hutong. Photo: Supplied

Sadly, the time came when we had to leave. I felt like there was much more to uncover and knew I would be back again. The Cathay Pacific Business Lounge at the Hong Kong Airport was the perfect place to lift our spirits before the dreaded flight home. A buffet offered noodle soups and BBQ duck, and a tearoom boasted a wide range of Chinese teas to choose from. Safe to say, we were both full and tea-buzzed before boarding.

While the city struggles to get numbers back to what they once were, Clement Kwok, managing director of the Peninsula Hotels, felt that there are “positive signs of recovery”.

“An increasing number of overseas visitors to Hong Kong have realised that Hong Kong remains an attractive destination for both business and leisure travelers,” he said.

Cathay Pacific, which has struggled with pilot shortages, said it aimed to have all of its pre-pandemic flights back by early 2025 and would be increasing the number of flights between Hong Kong and North America next year. Ongoing work on a third runway system at Hong Kong International Airport, which would significantly boost the airport’s capacity, is scheduled for completion by the end of this year.

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Email the Travel Weekly team at traveldesk@travelweekly.com.au

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