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22 March, 2022

TRAVEL WEEKLY’S TRAVEL DIARY: ANTARCTICA WITH AURORA EXPEDITIONS PART TWO

By David Hovenden

This is part two of our series chronicling our trip to Antarctica with Aurora Expeditions. If you missed it, here’s part one.

Day Two: Cierva Cove, Portal Point

And so our adventure really begins. This morning we anchored in Cierva Cove, already at 64° 08’ 08.83S in perfect conditions, a calm sea, no wind and -3°C. Time for everyone to be out on the water, 10 zodiacs and 10 kayaks.

With eight guests in each zodiac we went out exploring the bay. Within minutes we had our first sighting of Antarctic wildlife, Chinstrap and Gentoo penguins and a Weddell seal hauled out on the rocks of a small island located in Cierva Cove. We continued cruising around the island where we found two Leopard seals in the water, no doubt waiting for a breakfast of penguin. Whilst most of the zodiacs moved on to see even more wildlife, a few stayed watching the Leopard seals and experienced a penguin kill. Nature at its harshest and best!!

A Leopard Seal makes short work of a juvenile penguin within seconds of it entering the water for the first time. Natural, but nasty.

The cruise continued, we sighted our first Humpback whale of the day, these gentle giants of the ocean weighing up to 45 tonne and 16 metres long.

Pushing through the brash ice we came to a large iceberg with a naturally formed arch, then another with the most beautiful blue ice. Others ventured past the Argentinian Primevera station.

Face masks not only help keep you covid safe, but they also stop your face from freezing too.

Back onboard, a hot drink followed by lunch as we cruised into the Gerlache Strait. Early afternoon and the message over the public address, WHALES!!! For the next hour we were all enthralled and surrounded by feeding Humpbacks, some close to the ship others in the distance, no fewer than sixteen whales. All were in pairs as they fed. For those of us on the observation deck, we were zipping from side to side to see them, cameras clicking constantly.

Humpback Whales are never to be taken for granted, but on this trip, we came very, very close. Such was the proliferation of sightings.

How quickly things the weather can change down here. Late this afternoon we anchored off Portal Point, our lovely calm sea had become very choppy, but would that stop us? No! Maybe it stopped kayaking, instead, our kayak team embarked on a zodiac adventure, driving a couple of nautical miles from the ship where they saw more Humpback whales feeding on their favourite diet of krill; shrimp-like creatures of which these whales can consume up to one tonne a day.

Landing at Portal Point our first continental landing, more wildlife in the form of penguins and Antarctic Fur seals and time to stretch our legs walking up the snow/ice-covered hill on either side of the landing. This was a special time for Nancy and I as it marked the first time we’d both stepped on all seven continents.

Back on board and time for Captain’s Welcome. Our Captain Oleg Klaptenko introduced himself and his senior officers and proposed a toast to our Antarctic journey.

Day Three: Neko Harbor, Lemaire Channel

Antarctica displayed its best weather side in the night. Anyone who’d looked out at the sea would have seen large snowflakes travelling horizontally. Greg Mortimer was moving south. A surreal scene. The ocean vaguely choppy, while a snowstorm raged above the water.

And we find ourselves whitewashed at breakfast time, before the Neko Harbor glacier. Puerto Neko for the Argentines who claim the Antarctic Peninsula as their own territory.

The storm has subsided, but small wet, snowflakes continue to fall. After a while we are on land and soon afterward, as wet as the Gentoo penguins.

Most of the snow has melted, releasing a slush impregnated with the typical smell of “Penguin cologne”. Most Gentoos have left, the remainder roaming all available space and finding a passage, for us, is difficult. Minimal disturbance and impact are the rule. Most of the penguins are young, from this last summer brood.

Many are moulting, while some are behind in development. Winter is approaching and they will not be ready, with the tragic consequences. But this too is Nature. This too is climate change. The past winter was longer than usual. As a result, many of the penguins have been slow to mate and their offspring are far behind in growth.

Despite the rain and the sleet, walking up the hill kept us warm.

But, forgetting for a moment that nature can be merciless, we watch the young penguins. They look as if dressed in a wetsuit, honestly a little ugly, others with the soft grey down that inspires you to want to tighten them to your chest in an engaging embrace; we will save you, even if you are so smelly!

Opting to leave the penguins at the shore and their pungent odour, we trek up the hill to admire the panorama of the bay. others return to the starting beach where the zodiacs await them, to return aboard Greg Mortimer. Indeed, we are all tested by wet sleet.

Dry and refreshed that we were, it is finally time for the official presentations. 16 of the staff introduced themselves. John delivered his presentation on the Charismatic Megafauna just before everyone was called to the observation lounge or the wings. The long-awaited moment has arrived. Greg Mortimer is about to enter the narrow passage of the Lemaire canal, one of the most scenic places on the Antarctic Peninsula. Will we get through? Icebergs could obstruct the exit but the sight of a Chilean research ship advancing in the opposite direction to ours, removes all doubts and Greg Mortimer takes us from the North to South of the canal. It is a wonder of Nature, to be enjoyed with the eyes and with the heart.

The Lamaire channel has that real Lord of the Rings vibe going on.

Main photo credit: Jeff Kaufman.

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antarctica aurora expeditions greg mortimer