Iran has once again been thrust in the global spotlight this week following a surge in anti-government protests, with reports of civilian casualties reaching well into the thousands.
While stories of young protesters being violently killed had shocked audiences around the world, it has also reinforced something Patch Adventures co-founder Matthew Newton has observed repeatedly through years of travel in the country: the stark separation between Iran’s people and its government.
Until late September 2024, women-only tour operator Patch Adventures was still running tours to Iran – quietly welcoming groups of experienced female travellers to a destination many would never consider visiting.
The people behind the tours
Patch Adventures was co-founded by Matthew Newton and his wife Rebeca, who initially led the business.
“Rebeca was the heart of the business, and I was helping part-time,” Newton said. “When she stepped back [due to health reasons], I moved into running it full time.”
While a man leading a women-only travel company may seem unexpected, Newton said the focus was always on creating meaningful, community-driven travel experiences for women.
“A man leading a women-only travel company is unexpected, but I fell in love with it,” he says on the company’s website.
Patch Adventures operates under the broader Leatherback Travel group, founded by the Newtons, which has been recognised by the Australian Financial Review as our country’s fifth fastest-growing company.
According to Newton, the disconnect between how Iran is perceived and what travellers actually experience on the ground is significant.
“People regularly describe Iran as the country with the biggest difference between perception and reality,” he said.
Between Newton and his wife and co-founder Rebeca, the pair have travelled to Iran five times.
“Once you’re actually on the ground, it’s fantastic,” he said. “People are fantastically welcoming, hospitable, and very positive towards the West. You never sense hostility.”
Arrival and first impressions
For many travellers, even the process of entering Iran challenges expectations.
“When you arrive at Tehran airport, you think it’s going to be something like a movie,” Newton said. “But they couldn’t care less. They stamp your passport and you go through. There’s no interrogation or anything like that.”
He said this tone generally carries through daily travel experiences.
“The general atmosphere is very relaxed,” he said. “It’s not challenging, dusty, dirty or noisy. People aren’t trying to scam you. You just feel good the whole time.”
Public attitudes and perceptions of the West
Newton said another misconception travellers often carry is assuming everyday public attitudes mirror official government messaging.
“There’s a big distrust of the government,” he said. “For a lot of people, whatever the government says is bad, they assume must actually be good.”
He said this mindset often shapes how Iranians view Western countries, including the United States.
“The United States is extremely popular,” Newton said. “People have unfettered access to the internet most of the time. They can see what’s going on in the world.”
According to Newton, social media plays a significant role in shaping outlooks.
“Instagram is extremely popular in Iran,” he said. “Pretty much everyone asks for your Instagram handle. It’s a very image-driven culture.”
For travellers, this disconnect between official narratives and public sentiment is often unexpected.
“People expect locals to repeat what they hear in the media,” Newton said. “But there’s a clear separation between the government and everyday people.”
Women and everyday life
Patch Adventures’ Iran itineraries were women-only, and Newton said travellers were often surprised by the role women play in daily Iranian life.
“Women have a pretty strong role to play in Iranian society,” he said. “The majority of university graduates are women.”
While Iran has clear dress guidelines, Newton said enforcement in everyday life is often relaxed, particularly in urban areas.
“You might go to a shopping mall in Tehran and the majority of women won’t have hijab on,” he said. “There’s a really relaxed atmosphere on the ground.”
He was careful to stress that Iran is not without challenges.
“It’s not a liberal paradise,” Newton said. “Women do describe difficulties in their lives, and they do bump into issues. But if you compare it to the stories you hear in other Middle Eastern countries, Iran is actually one of the better ones in terms of day-to-day experience.”
Who travels to Iran?
Despite perceptions of risk, Patch Adventures’ Iran trips attracted a very specific demographic.
“Primarily women aged 55 to 70,” Newton said. “Very well travelled.”
He said most guests had already done extensive research before booking.
“They understand that headlines may tell some of the story, but they don’t tell the full story,” he said. “A large percentage have friends who’ve been to Iran or know people from Iran.”
Managing concern from family members, however, was often part of the preparation.
“We actually tell guests not to tell their friends they’re booking,” Newton said. “Every time Iran is in the headlines, friends will send them articles.”
In one instance, Patch Adventures received repeated requests from worried relatives.
“We were getting bombarded by two people asking us to cancel,” he said. “It turned out they were the guest’s daughters.”
A destination untouched by global sameness
One of the aspects travellers found most striking was how little Iran resembles other global cities.
“There’s no McDonald’s, Starbucks, KFC, Zara or H&M,” Newton said. “Because of sanctions, Iran hasn’t been able to globalise or Westernise like other countries.”
Instead, he said, the country has developed much of its infrastructure independently.
“They don’t have Uber – they have their own app,” he said. “A lot of what you buy in markets is made in Iran rather than imported.”
“That actually helps you find the magic of travel again,” Newton said. “You really feel like you’re in a different place.”
Interestingly, despite the absence of Western shops, they do have Jeanswest, Newton says laughing.
“I don’t know how Jeanswest got into Iran!?”
Moments that resonate
According to Newton, the most powerful moments for travellers were those involving direct interaction with locals.
“They talk most about the moments where they’re interacting with people,” he said. “Being hosted by a family, cooking in someone’s garden, spontaneous interactions in markets.”
Patch Adventures’ last Iran trip departed on 29 September 2024. Tours were paused amid increasing operational uncertainty.
“It wasn’t hesitation about Iran compared to other destinations,” Newton said. “It was about timing and being responsible.”
For those who made the journey, however, the experience proved transformative.
“When people get on the plane, they have an incredible time,” Newton said. “They always do.”
