Speaking to the acting CEO of Tourism Solomons, Dagnal Dereveke, one thing is abundantly clear: the Solomon Islands is not trying to be something it is not.
When I ask the obvious question, ‘How does the Solomon Islands compare to its Pacific neighbours Fiji and Vanuatu?’, Dereveke does not go into sales mode, rapidly firing off all the features of the islands. Instead, he calmly responds: “In regards to tourism development, we’re nowhere near.”
And it is true: when the visitor numbers of the Solomon Islands are compared to those of Fiji, the differences are stark. While the Solomons had 11,333 international travellers visit in the first half of 2024, Fiji had 77,000 in April alone. Fiji is home to several global chain hotels while the Solomon Island doesn’t have one – something Dereveke describes as a “limitation”.
And yet, I cannot help but feel that to measure the potential of the Solomon Islands in reference to its neighbours does it a huge disservice. On my drive from the airport to the hotel – Heritage Park Hotel – I feel an instant curiosity and warmth for the islands. The land itself is wild, humid and mountainous, covered in forests and palm trees. Meanwhile, the locals are largely untethered by technology, walking around in large chatty groups. The taxi driver jokes that even the villages on the main island of Guadalcanal are like going back to a time without phones. As my iPhone gleefully informs me that I spent an average of 7 hours a day on my phone last week, I think this doesn’t sound too bad.
I am visiting the island for the annual Mi Save Solo buyers’ famil. Attended by 14 or so ANZ buyers from the likes of Trip.com, Expedia and Flight Centre, the famil is a chance for buyers to learn more about one of the Pacific Islands’ lesser-known destinations. The 5-day trip began with 4 days of famil activities before ending with a buyers/seller event.
My trip to the Solomons for the Mi Save Solo buyers’ famil feels well-timed. It comes at a time when conversations about overtourism are rife, and destinations once celebrated for their untouched culture and natural beauty (such as Bali) are rapidly scaling back their offerings due to issues caused by too many tourists. In this context, it feels very important to not lose sight of what the Solomons offer – an abundance of untouched natural beauty and authenticity.
As Dereveke says, “We have our own unique offerings which Fiji doesn’t have”.
Another one of the key offerings is its incredibly diverse culture. The vast majority – 80 per cent – of the Solomons is owned by tribes, all with unique customs and cultures.
“The culture is very strong. And if you go to the villages, you really experience how the people live in their daily lives, rather than experiencing what’s been prepared for visitors. We encourage visitors to go down and to experience how people live in rural communities,” Dereveke says.
Whilst the majority of Christian villages are welcoming to tourists, there are some villages where locals have held on to their traditional beliefs and customs – such as not wearing Western clothes – and don’t want any visitors.
“They still maintain such a cultural, traditional way of living which includes considering the land sacred,” Dereveke explains.
Creepy but fascinating Skull Island
Tourists interested in learning more about the spiritual heritage of the land can visit the “creepy but fascinating” Skull Island. Set in the island’s Western Province, Skull Island is known for an abundance of human skulls collected for spiritual purposes.
Headhunting – the practice of preserving the decapitated head of an enemy after he or she is killed – has been a well-documented part of history in the Solomon Islands. Whilst (thankfully!), it is no more, it nonetheless makes for fascinating viewing.
Culture-seekers will also get their fill in the islands’ World War II history. Whilst WWII is considered distant history for many, in the Solomon Islands its impact is all too present. Every year it is estimated that as many as 20 people are killed by buried WWII bombs and tales of people losing their lives after they unknowingly cook on top of an undetonated bomb are all too common. Just a couple of years ago a group of children were hosting an event to raise funds when two of the party were killed by a bomb, the guide solemnly informs us.
Laid-back lifestyle
Most of the buyers on the trip fall into two categories: those still learning about the potential of the islands and die-hard fans.
Andrew Bowes, founder of PNG Holidays and Solomon Island Holidays, has been selling trips to the Solomons for years and has a deep love for the destination.
The island’s “clear blue water, white sand and reefs close to shore”, are some of their strongest selling points, he says.
Being able to see “pure reef” rather than the bleached reef of the Great Barrier Reef makes it a popular spot for Australian divers, he adds.
Whilst the Solomons might not be the best match for those seeking a five-star experience, it does offer some spectacular moments, Bowes continues.
“I’ve had some great little boat trips here – watching the sunset over a white sand beach in Gizo was pretty spectacular. Then there’s the abundance of fresh seafood that you can’t get in Australia without, you know, re-mortgaging the house,” he says laughing.
There’s also the “laid-back lifestyle and the easygoing people”.
“They’re just lovely, lovely people,” he says. “They draw me back all the time. I just can’t help coming back.”
Bowes is not the only buyer taken with the people of the Solomons. For many, a highlight of the trip was visiting an abandoned shipwreck at Roderick Bay. The local children were unsurprisingly thrilled by the wreckage and had turned the wreck into an impromptu amusement park, adding a ladder and even a zip wire (health and safety fans look away now).
On the final night, we were treated to a beautiful dinner at the Amazing Grace Boutique Cocoa Farm and Garden Tours. We were entertained by dancers from the local tribes and by the end of the night all the buyers took to the dance floor for the band’s rendition of Land Down Under.
Like Dereveke, none of the buyers are under any illusion that work needs to be done to share the magic of the islands with more tourists. Yet they are also all in agreement that there is plenty of magic to be shared.
