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Reading: My First Safari: Lions, luxury and lessons in listening
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Travel Weekly > Destinations > My First Safari: Lions, luxury and lessons in listening
Destinations

My First Safari: Lions, luxury and lessons in listening

Sofia Geraghty
Published on: 25th June 2025 at 10:32 AM
Sofia Geraghty
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In the wider world, not having been on a safari is fairly normal. But in the travel industry, it’s the equivalent of having three heads.

“This is your first-ever safari?” my fellow travellers ask in disbelief as we board the coach for the 2025 South African Tourism Buyers Famil.

I nod.

“You’ve never seen a single African animal? Not even a zebra?”

“You’re in for a treat,” they smile as we set off.

Not quite what I expected

My first safari isn’t your typical one. For starters, we’re not heading to Kruger National Park. Instead, we’re travelling to KwaZulu-Natal, a province in eastern South Africa that borders Mozambique.

It’s also my first time in Africa, full stop, and I’m not quite sure what to expect.

When I told people I was going to South Africa, I got one of two responses: a wide-eyed “wow, that sounds amazing” or, in my mum’s case, a concerned “be careful”.

While safety often comes up when talking about South Africa, it’s worth noting that the country shares the same SmarTraveller safety rating as the United Kingdom and France.

The same, but very different

Our first stop is Makakatana Bay Lodge, tucked inside iSimangaliso Wetland Park. As we arrive, I’m struck by how much the landscape reminds me of Australia. There’s the same red earth, twisted trees, and scrubby bush.

That sense of familiarity disappears quickly. A few minutes into our first game drive, a long-necked, long-legged creature steps in front of our vehicle.

My first wild giraffe.

Even though I’ve seen giraffes in zoos, there’s nothing quite like witnessing one in the wild. As we continue towards the lodge, zebras and hippos appear almost casually along the way. It’s hard to believe animals like this exist outside of stories.

Luxury meets the wild

One of the best parts of the experience is the seamless mix of comfort and raw nature.

Safari country isn’t a place to wander alone. The lodges and expert guides take care of everything, which means we’re free to focus on what really matters – the landscape and wildlife.

Each morning starts with coffee and biscuits before the game drive, followed by a full breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sundowner drinks are a daily ritual at all three of our lodges – Makakatana Bay Lodge, Thanda’s Four-Bedroom Royal Residences and Rhino Ridge.

With cold towels offered on arrival and every detail handled, there’s nothing left to do but look out at the bush.

No two drives are the same

Each game drive is different. I learn quickly that the key is to leave expectations behind the moment we step into the vehicle.

At Thanda, we come across three lions. A large male, with a full mane, stares at us from just metres away. I’m equal parts awestruck and uneasy, especially when we realise two lionesses are circling from the other side.

For someone who grew up in London, safety usually means knowing how fast I can get away if something goes wrong. But in the bush, survival depends on reading the animals and staying calm.

That lesson becomes even more important during a walking safari, also at Thanda. After tracking an endangered cheetah using its tag, our guide allows us to leave the vehicle and quietly approach on foot. My legs are shaking, but the experience is unforgettable.

On our final night at Rhino Ridge, after a quiet drive with no sightings, our guide receives an excited call. We speed across the savannah and arrive just in time to witness a rare pack of wild dogs – endangered and notoriously elusive – as they hunt and mate.

It’s a true pinch-me moment.

People make the place

While the animals are the stars, the people we meet are equally unforgettable.

At Rhino Ridge, we take part in a cultural excursion to understand how the local community interacts with the tourism industry.

We visit a community centre where residents are being trained in computer skills and guided pathways into tourism roles. We also meet Zamani (Nonduduzo) Khumalo, a young entrepreneur who runs Africa’s only Zulu-inspired Airbnb.

Meet the young African woman supporting her family with Airbnb

The verdict

An African safari offers it all: luxury, wildlife, and heart. For a first-timer like me, it was nothing short of magic – and a reminder that travel’s greatest rewards often come when you step into the unknown.

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