After snowfalls down to almost sea level this week, New Zealand is starting to look like a slice of heaven for skiers and snowboarders.
But is the land of the long white mountain all that it’s cracked up to be for Aussie winter tourists?
The half-glass-empty types will point to next no on-mountain accommodation, some access roads scarier than Meatloaf in a thong, snow conditions that aren’t always better than Australia and facilities not at the same level as true international resorts.
Yet there’s also plenty to love.
Many are blown away by the sheer beauty of places like Wanaka, the mountains that rise savagely off the valley floor and party potential of destinations like Queenstown.
The terrain is also more expansive and interesting than in Australia, there are better prospects of low-lying snow and there is chance to earn, even if it is just a little right now, on the Kiwi dollar.
And just like New Zealand’s cricket team, its resorts are improving all the time.
We look at the major players:
Mt Hutt, Canterbury region
The lowdown: About an hour and half driving from Christchurch, the feeder town is the quaint but quiet Methven, 30 minutes down the road from the resort base. There’s generally more snow here than further south and also more riding than initially meets the eye.
With a perfect 25-50-25 beginner/intermediate/advanced split, there are choices for all. The latter two get the best deal though, with long, cruisey options from the top of the six-seater to the bottom of the triple and the often cold-packed snow in the steep south faces.
What’s new: Improved terrain park; new intermediate trails; some access road upgrades.
What holds it back: Location north in the range makes it prone to winds and icy conditions. Methven is not Queenstown. The drive up.
Web: www.mthutt.co.nz
Coronet Peak, Queenstown
The lowdown: The launching pad for many an Aussie’s first trans-Tasman trip, Coronet is a neat, if small, place to find your feet. It’s a comfy 20-minute drive from Queenstown on a sealed road – you’ve already had a victory of sorts right there. Snowmaking helps the sometimes limited offerings from the heavens.
Offers night skiing, good pisted runs for intermediates and, under the right conditions, some short but spicy terrain in the back bowls.
What’s new: Improved night skiing; snow tubing lane.
What holds it back: Low base elevation can make the conditions sketchy on occasion. The closest ski area to Queenstown gets the most punters too.
The Remarkables, Queenstown
The lowdown: In a lot of ways The Remarks always felt like a resort that looked better than it rode. The spectacular vistas sure got your attention, but the riding felt limited.
Last year’s opening of the Curvey Basin Chairlift (part of $45 million of upgrades) certainly improved that, opening up new terrain for intermediates and better access for advanced skiers and boarders. With a great terrain park and higher elevation to ensure better conditions than Coronet, its stocks continue to rise.
What’s new: New base building; access road upgrade.
What holds it back: The best terrain still involves a hike. Access road still not exactly as welcoming as Coronet’s.
Treble Cone, Wanaka region
The lowdown: Big and burly, TC is no place for beginners and shouldn’t make any apologies for that. The Saddle Basin and Mototapu Chutes offer some of the best skiing and boarding in the country on a powder day and the 700-metre vertical drop is impressive.
Like all NZ resorts, it has no tree skiing/boarding, which limits your options when it is snowing heavily.
What’s new: Improved dining options; increased number of intermediate trails.
What holds it back: Not much to offer if you’re not a strong intermediate or above. The access road.
Web: www.treblecone.com
Cardrona, Wanaka region
The lowdown: Like Falls Creek to Mt Hotham, Cardrona plays the more approachable little brother to the gnarlier Treble Cone. One of the better access roads in NZ takes you to a neat resort that is small on vertical (390m), but big on facilities, customer service and ensuring beginners and intermediates receive a great experience.
Extensive terrain parks and halfpipes are the best in the country. Some limited on-mountain accommodation is on offer, but it’s no great strain to base yourself in Wanaka, perhaps the most beautiful town in NZ. A visit to the historic Cardrona Pub at the bottom of the hill is a must.
What’s new: Four new (Kassbohrers) grooming machines; new learner conveyor.
What holds it back: Would be a stretch for some to spend a week’s riding there.
Web: www.cardrona.com
Mt Ruapehu, Central North Island
The lowdown: The mighty volcano that is Mt Ruapehu rises like a shark tooth from Desert Rd, centred about four hours from both Auckland and Wellington.
Supporting two ski areas of Turoa and Whakapapa (under the one pass but not linked), it is arguably the best single mountain for riding in NZ, with a big vertical (722m), interesting natural terrain features, and plenty to keep intermediates and beginners occupied.
Accommodation is divided between the quieter national park and Ohakune (both off mountain). A vastly underestimated option for Australia’s September school holidays when the weather settles and snowpack is often deep.
What’s new: Reduced day pass rates.
What holds it back: Unpredictable weather and conditions. Weekend crowds converging from Wellington and Auckland. Doesn’t have the apres scene of Queenstown.
Web: www.mtruapehu.com
Best of the rest
New Zealand’s club fields are basic, but a blast for the adventurous. Craigieburn (www.craigieburn.co.nz) is probably the pick. Check out www.chillout.co.nz for a list of all resorts and pass options.
Special mention must go to Porters (www.skiporters.co.nz) just out of Christchurch, which has put up the only new chairlift in Australasia in 2015. A resort on the rise.
