Who says Sydney’s dining scene is on the ropes. Despite promising to “never, ever” open a restaurant again, TV chef Manu Feildel is now on pans at a 196-year-old pub in Sydney’s inner west.
Owned by the Laundy family, the Red Lion pub will soon be home to Bistro Red Lion by Manu which will occupy the upper level of the Rozelle pub from Friday 12 July.
While Feildel has a long-standing friendship with Laundy Hotels group executive chef, Jamie Gannon, it’s the deep pockets of the Laundy family that have lured him in.
While he successfully ran L’etoile, his own French bistro in Paddington, for several years and worked with the legendary chef, the late Tony Bilson at the eponymous Bilson’s, his other ventures have not fared so well.
This writer has seen several Feildel projects misfire, including Aperitif with fellow TV chef Miguel Mastre in Kings Cross which flamed out in 2011, L’etoile shut in 2014, and Duck In Duck Out, at World Square, shuttered in 2018.
Bistro Red Lion by Manu marks a return to the commercial kitchen for the French-Australian for the first time in four-years. He will juggle duties with Laundy Hotels’ Group executive chef, Jamie Gannon while continuing to run his studio kitchen, La Botanique, and has just launched a range of cookware, Culinary Co by Manu, available exclusively in Spotlight stores nationally. Talent runs deep in the Feidel household with his son Jonti playing for the South Sydney Rabbitohs Juniors while his wife, Clarissa Feildel, is a Better Homes & Gardens’ cooking presenter.
Feildel’s residency also heralded a significant revamp for the 1828 Rozelle pub, with an extensive eight-month, $1.5 million renovation across the upstairs bistro and downstairs pub, overseen by owners Laundy Hotels (Watsons Bay Boutique Hotel, Woolly Bay Hotel, Woolwich Pier Hotel).
At Bistro Red Lion by Manu, the menu features recipes from six generations of cooks, such as his father’s French country-style pâté served with prune and Armagnac jam and toasted sourdough. Starters include Nambucca oysters prepared two ways (natural à la Mignonette and gratinée-style with spinach, onion, and garlic), Scallop gratinée with café de Paris butter, Saucisson and cornichons, and Beetroot cured egg mayo.
Entrées showcase classic bistro favourites such as warm baby leek with truffle gribiche dressing and a double baked Comté cheese soufflé. Main courses include Matelote (fish stew) of Murray cod and mussel with speck, mushroom, and red wine sauce; Chargrilled pork tomahawk with braised fennel and grainy mustard sauce; Confit chicken Maryland on cannellini beans & kale fricassee with jus gras; and Butcher’s cut of beef with pommes dauphine and a choice of house-made sauces (peppercorn, mushroom, red wine, or blue cheese).
For dessert, indulgent options include a Crispy goat’s curd cigar with poached quince and thyme honey, Chocolate mousse with hazelnut Chantilly cream, and Canelés “Suzette”, a unique twist on Crêpes Suzette featuring flambéed Canelés served with vanilla ice cream.
Manu described the menu as focusing on “delicious, approachable food rather than aiming for the stars”.
“I want guests at Bistro Red Lion by Manu to forget the outside world and feel as though they’re dining at my home, enjoying a good bottle of wine,” he said.
Jamie added: “This isn’t just about a new venture; it’s a celebration of friendship, community, and collaboration. We’re thrilled to share what we’ve been working on with everyone.”
“Our goal was clear: retain the pub’s inherent charm while creating a more welcoming and inviting space that would attract even more visitors seeking the rarity of a traditional, beautiful pub — one that locals continue to proudly call their own,” Laundy family publican, Danielle Richardson, said.
With the addition of Bistro Red Lion by Manu, the Laundy’s are excited for the pub’s future.
“We’re incredibly enthusiastic about hosting this residency. Manu and Jamie’s vision perfectly aligns with our goals for the Red Lion. It truly feels like a match made in heaven,” she concluded.
Inside Bistro Red Lion by Manu, the dining room accommodates up to 120 guests. The bistro will operate Thursday through Sunday.
The ground floor pub continues to offer pub classics such as hand-crumbed chicken schnitzel, slow cooked beef ragu bolognese with mafaldine pasta, crumbed pork schnitzel, bangers and mash, pepper steak pie and cauliflower salad.
